Commodore James Norrington (![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png)
stem_the_tide) wrote2011-09-12 06:16 pm
stem_the_tide) wrote2011-09-12 06:16 pm
Entry tags:
ooc: i like a man in uniform. or, deconstructing james norrington
This is entirely the fault of captjacksparrow , or rather his mun, for compiling a detailed guide to Jack's clothing, scars, tattoos, and general appearance, for the ease of those who may end up undressing him. It is fabulous, and may be found here. For me to do the same for James seems a trifle unnecessary, simply as, unlike Jack Sparrow, the odds of anyone getting into James Norrington's Naval breeches are very low indeed. But! I want to, so I will. Call it educational.
A disclaimer: the Pirates of the Caribbean films are not exactly what you'd call a paragon of historical accuracy. They draw from nearly a two-hundred year span of time in the the style of clothing, weapons, and ships they use. Usually they at least stick for one era per costume/setpiece/etc, but not the case with their Naval costumes which, whilst pretty, are the strangest mishmash of time periods conceivable. The Royal Navy did not, in fact, even have standardised uniforms until 1740. Thus, though I place PotC early in the 18th century, in my explanation of James's dress habits, I will be drawing on various uniform pieces which range from mid-18th through mid-19th century.
For your pleasure, Commodore James Norrington:
James Norrington, as this photo might suggest, is a fine-ass motherfucker. To put it in the vernacular. More often than not, he is to be found in his uniform, whether that is the dress uniform he wears for his promotion ceremony or the more functional, everyday one. His clothes tend to be of very fine quality, perfectly fitted, and generally in immaculate condition. Obviously, as a sailor, a certain amount of wear and tear is inevitable, but where his clothes show sign of mending, it will always be tidily done, with a sailor's hand that's been stitching up his own clothes since the age of twelve. The recent promotion to Commodore also means that rank-specific articles of clothing-- namely his coats, and possibly his waistcoat as well, will be newer and thus will have had less opportunity to acquire injury.
The Coat
James's coat is in the style of a gentleman's dress coat of the era, made from sturdy, navy blue wool and a heavy linen for the lapels and cuffs, in white and lined with white twill silk. Designed to be worn open, it has no collar, and wide, panel-like lapels fastened to the front of the coat by brass buttons overlaid with gilt and die-stamped with the foul-anchor. The cuffs are wide and turned-back, a style which, though fashionable, was never seen on Naval uniforms. The skirt of the coat comes to his knees, and has panels of fabric inset into the side-seams, which provides for a flare down from the waist. The pockets have three-point flaps, a feature of the very first pattern of Royal Navy uniform. Both his dress and everyday coat are trimmed with gold lace and braid, although there is much more, and much more intricately patterned, on the coat of his dress uniform.
Regular uniform Full dress-- observe the overabundance of trim on the lapels and cuffs
The full dress coat also differs slightly in that the tips of its lapels are more aggressively angled in their shape, whereas the lapels on the regular uniform sweep up more smoothly to a point. Thus:
The Waistcoat
James's waistcoat is made of cream wool, without lapels, and falls to just above his knees. It has twelve buttons, the top few of which may occasionally be undone, gilded brass like those of his coat, and also with the foul-anchor on them. The skirt splits at his waist, and there is a vent up the back as well, to allow for free movement. Its pockets are three-point, like those of his coat, and again, the dress uniform version has much more in the way of gold trim. The fit is very tailored; in nothing but waistcoat and shirtsleeves, the silhouette will nip in at the waist and flare into the waistcoat's skirt.
Not James's, but the cut is similar. The following one is actually James's. You can see, next to Theo Groves, who is only a lieutenant, the triple line of braid on James's waistcoat is indicative of his higher rank.
The Shirt
As the above photo indicates, James's shirts are generous in their cut, with full sleeves. The shirttails are also quite long. They'd likely have a high collar, thus:
This particular shirt has what are called Dorset buttons, which could be opened down to the chest. The high collar is designed to be wrapped with a stock, an early form of cravat which wrapped around the neck several times before tying in a bow in front. James's stock, as can be seen in the pictures, is plain white, possibly a silk blend of cotton or linen.
Under the shirt, many men might wear an Undershirt
made of linen or wool flannel. In James's case, it is likely that he did so when he was younger, and sailing in less forgiving climes, but would have largely dropped the habit upon coming to the Caribbean. It's hot enough that he doesn't need another layer of wool.
The Breeches
James wears knee-breeches of white wool; they're fairly tight-fitting and come to just below the knee, where they fasten with four buttons of horn on either side. The fly and placket are also fastened with buttons, gilt brass again, with the foul anchor. There is one on each side of the placket, and three for the fly. Many 18th century breeches, including Naval ones, had a 'gusset' at the back; an adjustable panel which could be laced tighter or looser to adjust the size of the waist. James's very likely include this feature as well.
The Stockings
James wears white stockings, most likely of a cotton-silk blend, which fasten above the knee with a garter.
Here you can see both his stockings and his shoes. The shoes are black leather, with a gold buckle on the tongue, and a slight heel.
The Wig
James wears a fine white wig of human hair. Wigs were incredibly expensive, especially quality ones, and expensive too to maintain, to keep curled and in good condition. Like everything he owns, though, James is very particular about keeping his wig in perfect condition, clean and powdered and starched to maintain its shape.
Most 18th C. wigs had very obvious hairlines; it is a mark of the quality of his that it has a slightly more authentic look. Or as authentic as powder-white and curled can look on a man in his thirties. Under the wig, James has brown hair, long enough to bind back into a queue, quite thick and smooth and fine. When he doesn't wear the wig, he always keeps it tied back, although a few strands will invariably slip free.
The Hat
James has two different hats which he is seen wearing throughout the course of the film. Both are black tricones which look to be made of stiffened felt, or something similar, with gold trim.
His regular hat.
And the dress uniform one, with fluffy feathers in. Both have the foul-anchor on a gold button on one side, with two strips of gold trim overlaying a section of pleated black fabric.
Under all those layers, should you get that far, James is white. Shockingly white, for a sailor, but perhaps as one who spends all his time buttoned up to the neck, it shouldn't be surprising. There are a few scars of note, though not as many as there might be. A line of white slices across his right hip from where a splintered spar of wood struck him in an explosion. Another mars the back of his left knee, where a French sword almost managed to sever the tendon there. A puckered line of red curls around his left shoulder and onto his upper back. His hands and forearms bear countless tiny marks from years of sailing and swordplay, but otherwise he is fairly well unblemished.
I believe that is everything that needs to be said about James's wardrobe and/or any distinguishing marks, and so I shall leave you all with this:
captjacksparrow , or rather his mun, for compiling a detailed guide to Jack's clothing, scars, tattoos, and general appearance, for the ease of those who may end up undressing him. It is fabulous, and may be found here. For me to do the same for James seems a trifle unnecessary, simply as, unlike Jack Sparrow, the odds of anyone getting into James Norrington's Naval breeches are very low indeed. But! I want to, so I will. Call it educational.A disclaimer: the Pirates of the Caribbean films are not exactly what you'd call a paragon of historical accuracy. They draw from nearly a two-hundred year span of time in the the style of clothing, weapons, and ships they use. Usually they at least stick for one era per costume/setpiece/etc, but not the case with their Naval costumes which, whilst pretty, are the strangest mishmash of time periods conceivable. The Royal Navy did not, in fact, even have standardised uniforms until 1740. Thus, though I place PotC early in the 18th century, in my explanation of James's dress habits, I will be drawing on various uniform pieces which range from mid-18th through mid-19th century.
For your pleasure, Commodore James Norrington:
A Guide to the Sartorial Habits of Naval Officers and Gentlemen of the Early 18th Century
James Norrington, as this photo might suggest, is a fine-ass motherfucker. To put it in the vernacular. More often than not, he is to be found in his uniform, whether that is the dress uniform he wears for his promotion ceremony or the more functional, everyday one. His clothes tend to be of very fine quality, perfectly fitted, and generally in immaculate condition. Obviously, as a sailor, a certain amount of wear and tear is inevitable, but where his clothes show sign of mending, it will always be tidily done, with a sailor's hand that's been stitching up his own clothes since the age of twelve. The recent promotion to Commodore also means that rank-specific articles of clothing-- namely his coats, and possibly his waistcoat as well, will be newer and thus will have had less opportunity to acquire injury.
The Coat
James's coat is in the style of a gentleman's dress coat of the era, made from sturdy, navy blue wool and a heavy linen for the lapels and cuffs, in white and lined with white twill silk. Designed to be worn open, it has no collar, and wide, panel-like lapels fastened to the front of the coat by brass buttons overlaid with gilt and die-stamped with the foul-anchor. The cuffs are wide and turned-back, a style which, though fashionable, was never seen on Naval uniforms. The skirt of the coat comes to his knees, and has panels of fabric inset into the side-seams, which provides for a flare down from the waist. The pockets have three-point flaps, a feature of the very first pattern of Royal Navy uniform. Both his dress and everyday coat are trimmed with gold lace and braid, although there is much more, and much more intricately patterned, on the coat of his dress uniform.
Regular uniform Full dress-- observe the overabundance of trim on the lapels and cuffs
The full dress coat also differs slightly in that the tips of its lapels are more aggressively angled in their shape, whereas the lapels on the regular uniform sweep up more smoothly to a point. Thus:
The Waistcoat
James's waistcoat is made of cream wool, without lapels, and falls to just above his knees. It has twelve buttons, the top few of which may occasionally be undone, gilded brass like those of his coat, and also with the foul-anchor on them. The skirt splits at his waist, and there is a vent up the back as well, to allow for free movement. Its pockets are three-point, like those of his coat, and again, the dress uniform version has much more in the way of gold trim. The fit is very tailored; in nothing but waistcoat and shirtsleeves, the silhouette will nip in at the waist and flare into the waistcoat's skirt.
Not James's, but the cut is similar. The following one is actually James's. You can see, next to Theo Groves, who is only a lieutenant, the triple line of braid on James's waistcoat is indicative of his higher rank.
The Shirt
As the above photo indicates, James's shirts are generous in their cut, with full sleeves. The shirttails are also quite long. They'd likely have a high collar, thus:
This particular shirt has what are called Dorset buttons, which could be opened down to the chest. The high collar is designed to be wrapped with a stock, an early form of cravat which wrapped around the neck several times before tying in a bow in front. James's stock, as can be seen in the pictures, is plain white, possibly a silk blend of cotton or linen.
Under the shirt, many men might wear an Undershirt
made of linen or wool flannel. In James's case, it is likely that he did so when he was younger, and sailing in less forgiving climes, but would have largely dropped the habit upon coming to the Caribbean. It's hot enough that he doesn't need another layer of wool.
The Breeches
James wears knee-breeches of white wool; they're fairly tight-fitting and come to just below the knee, where they fasten with four buttons of horn on either side. The fly and placket are also fastened with buttons, gilt brass again, with the foul anchor. There is one on each side of the placket, and three for the fly. Many 18th century breeches, including Naval ones, had a 'gusset' at the back; an adjustable panel which could be laced tighter or looser to adjust the size of the waist. James's very likely include this feature as well.
The Stockings
James wears white stockings, most likely of a cotton-silk blend, which fasten above the knee with a garter.
Here you can see both his stockings and his shoes. The shoes are black leather, with a gold buckle on the tongue, and a slight heel.
The Wig
James wears a fine white wig of human hair. Wigs were incredibly expensive, especially quality ones, and expensive too to maintain, to keep curled and in good condition. Like everything he owns, though, James is very particular about keeping his wig in perfect condition, clean and powdered and starched to maintain its shape.
Most 18th C. wigs had very obvious hairlines; it is a mark of the quality of his that it has a slightly more authentic look. Or as authentic as powder-white and curled can look on a man in his thirties. Under the wig, James has brown hair, long enough to bind back into a queue, quite thick and smooth and fine. When he doesn't wear the wig, he always keeps it tied back, although a few strands will invariably slip free.
The Hat
James has two different hats which he is seen wearing throughout the course of the film. Both are black tricones which look to be made of stiffened felt, or something similar, with gold trim.
His regular hat.
And the dress uniform one, with fluffy feathers in. Both have the foul-anchor on a gold button on one side, with two strips of gold trim overlaying a section of pleated black fabric.
Under all those layers, should you get that far, James is white. Shockingly white, for a sailor, but perhaps as one who spends all his time buttoned up to the neck, it shouldn't be surprising. There are a few scars of note, though not as many as there might be. A line of white slices across his right hip from where a splintered spar of wood struck him in an explosion. Another mars the back of his left knee, where a French sword almost managed to sever the tendon there. A puckered line of red curls around his left shoulder and onto his upper back. His hands and forearms bear countless tiny marks from years of sailing and swordplay, but otherwise he is fairly well unblemished.
I believe that is everything that needs to be said about James's wardrobe and/or any distinguishing marks, and so I shall leave you all with this:
OOC
It would be interesting (or an excuse for more picspam!) to do a study of DMC!James's ensemble. Or James as a pirate, even though Ted and Terry weren't clever and so didn't realise to go that route and provide us with pictures. Since James as a pirate gets a lot more physical play from his boyfriend than James as a Commodore.
Also, stockings are now oddly ngh-attractive. With James's loooong, long shapely calves and nothing else.
I really want clothing!porn now. Or James and Jack as young things, and James shilling out for his new uniform and donning it for the first time. Or Jack going, GODDAMMIT ENGLAND COLD :| and shivering, in his thin, thin tropical linen layers and stealing James's woolen undershirt, or a few of them, and James's coat to curl up on James's bed in his rooms.
Very informative guide. It makes me wonder, actually, if Jack's shirt is not so different from James's, as Jack has dropped sleeves and a collar that looks like it could button quite high, only that Jack is slouchy and scandalous and instead just lets his collar flop over his shoulders. It makes me wonder how easily one could dress Jack Sparrow up into a gentleman, without adding much, and how easily one could dress James Norrington down, in a pirate, without taking much away. The only difference it seems is that James has buttons on... everything, where as Jack has ties, which would make sense as a mark of class.